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Problem Weeds (Video from Lawncare University)

Fri, 20 May 2011 12:33:00 -0400

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Spring Cleanup (Video from Lawncare University)

Fri, 20 May 2011 10:13:00 -0400

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Record Rains and Cool Temps

Fri, 29 Apr 2011 13:52:00 -0400

It's easy to understand why folks talk about the weather so much. Because it's always different and it affects everyone. The heavy, consistent rain of April and cool temperatures have really hampered our ability to get out and enjoy some good old-fashion lawn work. Most people are commenting about the use of canoes and kayaks to navigate their backyards and how they haven't quite packed away that winter coat. You may notice that your lawn is not yet fully green. That's mostly due to the cloudy, cool temperatures. You should expect things to jump out of the ground after only a few days of warmer weather. Crabgrass, dandelion, and grubs are all ready to go....just waiting for the water to recede.

Important Changes to Season-long Grub Products

Mon, 18 Apr 2011 14:02:00 -0400

Grub damaged turf is showing up all over. If it seems like those dead spots are getting bigger, you're right. Grub activity in the spring can cause major damage. Those little spots from last fall are not so little anymore. Although proper irrigation, fertilization and mowing height can limit the effect of grub feeding in a healthy lawn, this does little to comfort us when the grubs have taken over and the grass starts dying.

Stopping damage in the spring: There are many products available for sale at garden centers and other retail outlets. Only carbaryl (Sevin) or trichlorfon (Dylox) will work well when applied in the spring (from March to mid-May). These products stop feeding activity so you can start to re-establish the damaged areas. These products will not prevent future feeding (like this fall or next spring).

Preventing future damage: As previously mentioned, a vigorous lawn with deep roots will tolerate a lot of feeding before damage appears. However, once the grubs have made their presence known, the memory of the damage can be a powerful motivator. Season-long products must be applied before the damage appears. The next generation of grubs will get started in July and August, therefore the application of most season-long products should occur in early-to-mid July. Products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, clothianidin, or halofenazide should be applied in mid-July.

New Ingredient in GrubEx needs to be applied in May: There is a new active ingredient called chlorantraniliprole that is also very effective in preventing grub problems, but it is less water soluble than the preventive compounds mentioned above. Since it takes quite a bit longer to move down to where the grubs will be, it is best to apply a product containing chorantraniliprole in late April or early May for it to be most effective when the grubs hatch in July and Aug.

Terry Davis, MSU Entomologist, has put together an excellent article summarizing the products you are likely to encounter at the retail stores. Check out his Homelawn Grub Control Products - 2011 here.

Gypsum: Use it or lose it?

Tue, 08 Mar 2011 09:50:00 -0500

Gypsum, or calcium sulfate, has become a hot topic in the fertilizer industry and while this soil additive is widely advertised, it is not well understood. The following is a quick reference list about gypsum.

Gypsum is NOT lime.

In order to adjust soil pH, liming products must contain carbonate (CO3-) which reacts with hydrogen ions to neutralize soil acidity.
Gypsum is calcium sulfate (CaSO4). While the calcium will displace hydrogen ions, these ions will remain in solution and will not adjust soil pH.

Gypsum can be used as a source of calcium and sulfur, however, remember:

Gypsum is more soluble than lime and can add calcium more rapidly to the soil. This may result in decreasing potassium or magnesium levels in the soil. Monitor this by soil testing.
Michigan soils generally are calcareous-based soils meaning they are derived from materials high in calcium resulting in soils naturally higher in calcium.
Gypsum can be used as a sulfur source, however, it tends to be less soluble than other sources such as ammonium sulfate.

Gypsum can improve water and root infiltration in sodic soils.

Sodic soils are very uncommon in Michigan.
Sodic soils are high in sodium, low in calcium and have problems with water and root penetration due to the effects sodium has on structure.
The calcium in gypsum, along with drainage and tillage, has been shown to reduce sodium levels in sodic soils.
Reduced sodium levels will improve soil structure resulting in greater water and root penetration in sodic soils.

Gypsum has been shown to be effective at treating aluminum toxicity on soils with a pH lower than 4.5.

At pH lower than 4.5, aluminum in soil overpowers the ability of hydrogen ions to increase pH.

Sulfate may act as a counter ion on soil particles increasing aluminum absorption from the soil solution. Aluminum sulfate is less toxic to plants than the aluminum ion individually.

GDDTracker is online.

Tue, 01 Mar 2011 07:00:00 -0500

The GDDTracker Team is proud to launch the latest version of our turf pest tracking web site. We have been very hard at work to bring you an even better product in 2011. You can now drop a star on the map to mark your location and with the new Google Maps interface, you can zoom in for a closer look. Another major change for 2011 is the addition of Ohio to the GDDTracker network; joining Michigan, Indiana and Illinois. The Ohio Turfrass Foundation and John Deere Landscapes join a growing list of supporters to fund this latest expansion. Welcome to all the Buckeyes. Additional new features will be coming on-line in the near future.

Predicting pest and weed outbreaks with calendar-based timing is unreliable. Heat accumulation units (growing degree days) is a better method to track biological activity of important outbreaks. Visit GDDTracker today to sign up for free email alerts for your location.

The Big Melt

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 08:50:00 -0500

There was significant snow melt last weekend and it will continue throughout the week with high temperatures expected in the low 40's to near 50. Currently the night time lows are forecast to be near or above freezing almost every night (except tonight) which should help the water keep moving and minimize ice formation. As the snow melts do whatever you can to facilitate water movement off greens to prevent overnight freezing and ice formation. Shoveling snow from poorly draining areas or shoveling channels or paths to help water quickly escape from greens could reduce the risk of winterkill injury.

Winterkill Research Update

Thu, 20 Jan 2011 14:17:00 -0500

It may be the middle of winter, but research actitivies continue at the Turfgrass Research Center. Winterkill is a term used to describe many different maladies that result in dead turf in the spring. In a new line of research, the MSU Turf Team is trying to gain a better understanding of the winter conditions that lead to various types of injury on annual bluegrass putting greens. Watch a short video here.

Turfgrass Phosphorus Use Legislation Passes

Sun, 09 Jan 2011 12:03:00 -0500

In December 2020, Michigan lawmakers passed legislation (HB-5368) that wil impact phosphorus use on turfgrass. The new regulations and limitations will go into effect on January 1, 2012.

Full text of the bill can be viewed here. The MSU Turf Team is already working on education and training opportunities to comply with the new regulations.

Dealing with leaves

Mon, 11 Oct 2010 08:14:00 -0400

It's that time again when the pretty fall foliage will soon begin to tumble to the ground and cover up the turf. Instead of breaking your back raking, consider mowing the leaves back into the turf. So, if you're thinking about giving mowing a try here's what you need to know to be successful.

First of all make sure your mower has a sharp blade, after a long season of mowing, the blades may be dull at this time of year and trying to chop up leaves will be more challenging with a dull blade.
Second, raise the mower as high as it will go and mow at your normal speed, don't "rev" the throttle to the high jackrabbit setting and blaze around the yard. Try to mow the leaves when they are moist from the morning dew, but don't mow them when they're really wet. This will prevent the leaves from blowing all over the place and will help with your allergies.
Finally, don't let the leaves pile up too high before you mow. Too high would probably be greater than 3 to 4 inches of leaf depth on the turf. Good luck and give it a try; you may find that mulching leaves helps the turf by returning nutrients and organic matter, besides that it saves my aching back.

Turf School Returns

Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:22:00 -0400

The MSU Turf Team is pleased to announce the return of Turf School December 14-17 at the Kellogg Center in East Lansing, MI. Turf School is taught by the entire MSU Turf Team and will take you on a rapid fire cruise of our world-class turgrass curriculum. This is a great opportunity to gain exposure to the world of turfgrass management. more>>

Poison Ivy Control

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 12:20:00 -0400

The cool evenings of the past week have been welcome releif to turfgrass managers and those without air conditioning. Sleeping with the windows open and waking up in the morning to heavy dew are sure signs that summer's stranglehold will soon be loosened. The record heat of 2010 started back in March. This has been great for things like crabgrass, goosegrass, and other summer annual weeds. If you live near a woodlot or naturalized area you may have noticed that 2010 has also been a remarkable year for poison ivy growth. Poison ivy is one of the most common causes of blistering dermatitis in the midwest and northeast regions of the country. If you are going to try and control poison ivy with herbicide applications then now is the time to start. Cool nights are a trigger for the vines to start storing energy for next year's campaign. Soon the leaves will turn crimson red and fall to the ground. Therefore, the first herbicide application must be made before the end of August in order to get good translocation into the vine and root system. Herbicides containing 2,4-D and triclopyr are the most effective on poison ivy. Extra caution should be used to avoid applying these product to adjacent broadleaf vegetation. Two applications, 3 weeks apart should provide a substantial reduction in returning plants next spring. Spot treating in late April, early May may be necessary to remove persistant plants. The irritating oil of poison ivy is present in all plant parts and will persist in dead vegetation for over a year. Take precautions when handling any plant parts or clothing that has come into contact with the vines.

Aerate to Provide Relief

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 11:01:00 -0400

Putting greens have definitely been under stress this summer and with sporadic, heavy rainfall events many rootzones have been saturated. Although it may be scary to do anything to greens besides mowing and applying fungicide, solid tine aerating the greens with small pencil tines can provide some much needed oxygen to an already depleted root system. Follow pencil tine aeration with mowing and rolling and the evidence of surface disruption will be gone within days.

Egypt Valley Hosts USGA Junior Amateur

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 14:26:15 -0400

Congrats to Jeff Holmes and all of his staff on successfully hosting the USGA Junior Amateur last week at Egypt Valley Country Club. I stopped by last Thursday and the course was playing firm and fast. The championship included a new course record of 62 during qualifying by Gavin Hall and the youngest ever champ in Jim Liu who at 14 years old beat Tigers previous youngest champ record by an easy 7 months. Like many of you, I've always thought there was a 62 waiting for me at Egypt Valley.

Winterkill Still Evident in July

Tue, 13 Jul 2010 13:30:00 -0400

Despite the fact that winterkill on golf courses seems to be well in our rear-view mirror it is still impacting putting green quality. Putting greens that suffered damage last winter and were reestablished either by seeding, plugging, or sodding may not be performing up to the standards of the unaffected greens. June not only brought warmer temperatures but also pressure in the form of tournaments and golfer demands to have the greens uniform and fast. Many superintendents waited as long as they could to lower the mowing height on the portions of the green or entire greens that were affected by winterkill to try and ensure turfgrass survival. However, the combination of high temperatures and lower mowing heights has proved too much for bentgrass seedlings that in many instances were less than 8 weeks old. If you're struggling to understand the problem, imagine seeding a green and having it at 1/8 mowing height and ready for play in two months. Don't hesitate to revert or start to treat these areas of the green different to ensure that there is a healthy turfgrass plant before winter starts approaching again.

Japanese Beetle Biocontrol Field Day 2010

Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:25:00 -0400

Where: MSU Tollgate Research and Extension Farm, Novi MI

When: Wednesday, July 28th, 10:00 AM to 12:00 noon

Who: Everyone interested in helping to distribute a new pathogen of Japanese beetle throughout Michigan

Why: With the support of the Michigan Turfgrass Foundation, Project GREEEN and the Michigan Department of Agriculture, MSU research and Extension Specialists have established a new pathogen of Japanese beetle at several locations in SE Michigan. We would now like your help in spreading infected Japanese beetles throughout as much of Michigan as possible.

What: Dr. David Smitley, Mary Wilson and Bob Bricault from MSU Extension will briefly describe the biocontrol project at 10:00, 10:30 and 11:00 AM. Afterwards, participants will be given a small bag of infected beetles to take with them. The infected beetles can be taken anywhere in Michigan to establish the pathogen, Ovavesicula popilliae. The protozoan pathogen is only known to infect Japanese beetle, and poses no risk to other insects, people or pets. After the pathogen is introduced to a new location it is expected to take at least 6 years to build-up to a level that will provide noticeable biological control. It will not eliminate Japanese beetle, but will help suppress populations to much lower levels.Where: MSU Tollgate Research and Extension Farm, Novi. Beetles cannot be taken out of Michigan without a proper USDA-APHIS or Ag-Canada permit.

Yellow Nutsedge

Fri, 02 Jul 2010 11:08:00 -0400

Following a wet 2009 and some pretty good spring and early summer precipitation this year, yellow nutsedge is making a strong showing in turf. Cultural practices for controlling nutsedge include keeping up on mowing to prevent seed production, correcting poorly draining areas, and hand weeding. Hand weeding is difficult as yellow nutsedge has tubers under the surface that will simply sprout a new plant if not also excavated. For serious infestations a herbicide application may be necessary. Control options for the homeowner are limited, look for products with the active ingredient sulfentrazone. Yellow nutsedge control options for professional applicators include Certainty (a.i. sulfosulfuron) and Sedgehammer (a.i. halosulfuron). Repeat applications will likely be required to achieve control. As with any herbicide applications at this time of year, be cautious of applications to turfgrass that is under drought/heat stress. General recommendations are to avoid herbicide applications when temperatures are above 80° F due to the risk of burning the turf. See the full biography on yellow nutsedge and other troublesome weeds at MSU Turfweeds.

Fairy Ring

Tue, 29 Jun 2010 13:25:00 -0400

The great growing conditions for turf so far this year seem to have also resulted in a good crop of fairy ring on putting greens. There are over 50 soilborne basidiomycete fungi that cause fairy ring. Fairy ring is classified in 3 types according to the symptoms expressed. Type I fairy ring causes the soil and thatch to become hydrophobic and results in dead rings or arcs of turf. Type II fairy ring causes dark green circles or arcs from enhanced turfgrass growth. Type III fairy ring has mushrooms or puffballs in a ring or arc. So far this year I’ve been seeing primarily Type II fairy ring. According to Dr. Vargas the best fungicides for control are ProStar followed by Heritage, Endorse, and Bayleton. A wetting agent is typically also applied to prevent or correct any soil hydrophobicity where the fungus was growing. Don’t panic after treatment if you still observe the dark green rings. The fungus may have been killed but the chemicals it released may still be present in the soil, causing the darker green turf.

Japanese Beetle and European Chafer

Mon, 28 Jun 2010 08:00:00 -0400

If you haven't noticed them already, they're coming. Japanese beetles are showing up now which means they'll soon be munching on your favorite ornamentals and in a couple months may be munching on turf roots. European chafer beetles are also on the scene although you likely won't see the beetles during the day. European chafer beetles are typically observed at dusk when they fly up into trees for 'mating parties'. European chafer beetles don't feed on ornamentals like Japanese beetles do but they can be even more devastating to turf later this summer. Insecticide applications to prevent grub damage from either Japanese beetle or European chafer can be applied between now and July 15th for best results. Insecticides that are effective include imidacloprid, chloratraniliprole, halofenozide, thiamefoxam, and clothianidin. Please read and follow all label directions when applying an insecticide.

Pearlwort in Putting Greens

Wed, 23 Jun 2010 12:24:00 -0400

During a recent golf course visit I came across birdseye pearlwort (Sagina procumbens L.) on a putting green. As described in the book Weeds of the Northeast, “pearlwort is a small stoloniferous perennial that forms dense turf like mats with erect stems.” When mowed at putting green heights the patches of pearlwort look very similar to Poa annua until you get down to ground level and notice the pearlwort flowers enclosed in a capsule. When mowing putting greens every day it would seem these would be constantly cut off. However the patches I observed did have these fruit capsules present that must have either flexed below the mower or had sprung up since mowing. In most cases it would seem manual plug removal from the green would probably be the best option. Although I know this is not a complete list, a quick search found herbicide control options include MCPP, Quicksilver (a.i. carfentrazone), and Rubigan. As always, please remember to read and follow all label directions when applying a herbicide.